Breguet Type XX Transatlantique 3820 automatic 39 mm

The origins

After the Second World War, aeronautics was in full swing. There was a strong revival and the great powers were acquiring new means of offense. General de Gaulle's France was preparing and consolidating the country's future. France was acquiring new measuring instruments, including watches.

With a view to purchasing a large quantity of a chronograph for the French military air force in the early 1950s, the French Ministry of Defense drew up strict specifications in order to issue calls for tenders to watch manufacturers. Several watch manufacturers responded to the call. These new chronographs were initially designated as “Type 20”. A few years later, as the design of these first models had become obsolete and their maintenance costly, new specifications allowed the introduction of new models under the designation “Type 21” with greater reliability.

Each Type 20 or 21 had to have a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 12 o'clock marking, a black dial with luminescent hour markers, Arabic numerals and hands, and a movement with the “return in flight” function!

Suppliers included Auricoste, Breguet and Vixa in the 1950s, and Dodane in the 1960s. Dodane also produced models under other brands such as Airain and Chronofixe.

These chronographs were supplied to air force pilots and navigators. Some were also offered for sale within the military corps.

Breguet Type 20 vs Type XX: What's the difference?

The Breguet Type 20 and Type XX watches originated in the 1950s, when Breguet began producing chronographs for French military pilots. In 1953, the French Ministry of Defense published specifications requiring watches with a flyback function, an “onion” crown and resistance to magnetism and temperature variations. These models, exclusively intended for the armed forces (Air Force, Naval Aeronautics and Flight Test Center), were then designated as “Type 20”. However, in 1955, Breguet decided to standardize the designation of all its pilot chronographs by naming them “Type XX”, whether military or civilian. One notable exception is a small series of eight pieces produced in 1957, which retain the designation Type 20 and are now highly prized by collectors. From 1957, the Type XX models also took on a civilian dimension, becoming emblematic aviation watches for chronograph enthusiasts. In short, the Type 20s are historically linked to military models, while the Type XXs embody the evolution towards a versatile watch, combining aeronautical heritage and civilian use.

The third-generation Type XX:

In 1995, under the direction of the investment company Investcorp, Breguet relaunched the Type XX collection, thus marking the beginning of its third generation. This revival came after a decade-long hiatus, at a time when chronographs were once again arousing the enthusiasm of watchmaking enthusiasts. At that time, Breguet took over the Nouvelle Lemania movement manufacture, thus reviving the Lemania movement that had proved its worth in previous generations. The Type XX 3800 reference became the cornerstone of this new era, introducing for the first time an automatic movement, the Calibre 582, based on the Lemania 1350. This modern movement retains the valuable flyback function, but is distinguished by automatic winding, a feature never before seen in this line. In addition, Breguet introduces characteristic aesthetic elements, such as the coin-shaped fluting on the case, the brand's visual signature, as well as a polished bezel that brings a contemporary touch while remaining faithful to the historical spirit of pilot's watches. These innovations mark a real turning point for the collection, combining tradition and modernity.

The 3800, nicknamed “Aéronavale”, pays tribute to the French naval aviation squadrons and is distinguished by a robust and elegant design, with a diameter increased to 39 mm compared to 38 mm for previous generations. This model is available in several prestigious variations, including the 3800BA in yellow gold with a black dial, the 3800BR in rose gold with a blue dial, and the 3800PT in platinum with a black dial, produced in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

In 1998, Breguet enriched the line with the reference 3820, also known as the “Transatlantique”. Inspired by the Breguet 19's non-stop Paris-New York flight in 1930, this version is distinguished by the addition of a date window at 6 o'clock, made possible by the automatic Calibre 582Q movement, based on the Lemania 1372. This time, the bezel has a brushed finish, providing a subtle contrast with the polished case.

During this period, Breguet also experimented with limited and original versions. The Aéronavale 3807, of which around 1,500 were produced, is distinguished by its shiny cobalt blue dial and the introduction of a transparent case back, a first for the Type XX collection. At the same time, Breguet is offering some unexpected variations, including a titanium Transatlantique 3820 with a black carbon fiber dial, as well as models in yellow gold, white gold and rose gold with colored dials (blue, black or white).

Each reference of the Breguet Type XX 3800 and 3820 models has been produced in approximately 20,000 copies, testifying to the success of this third generation. Among these pieces, certain special editions are distinguished by their rarity and prestige. In particular, there are two limited series: one of 90 pieces in platinum and the other of 150 pieces in yellow gold and red gold. In addition to these exclusive versions, Breguet has also offered limited editions, as well as a model with an alarm function and a model celebrating an anniversary of the collection, thus enriching the Type XX line with unique creations sought after by collectors.

Let's get acquainted

The model that we have the pleasure of presenting to you in this episode of 10h10 is the Breguet Type XX 3820, an iconic chronograph that embodies the perfect alliance between aeronautical heritage and contemporary refinement. Inspired by the history of aviation and the exploits of military pilots, this watch stands out for its sleek design and timeless appeal. Its 39 mm case, subtly larger than previous versions, features the famous coin-edge fluting on the caseband that is characteristic of Breguet creations. The finely brushed bezel adds a robust touch that contrasts with the matte black dial, optimized for perfect readability thanks to the luminescent hands and hour-markers.

The dial is also embellished with three gray counters that add to the visual balance while reinforcing the functionality of the watch. There is a 15-minute chronograph counter at 3 o'clock, a 12-hour chronograph counter at 6 o'clock, and a small seconds counter at 9 o'clock. These subdials provide a touch of subtle contrast with the black background while offering quick and intuitive reading of information.

At the heart of this exceptional piece beats the Lemania 582 automatic caliber, directly inspired by the famous Lemania 1350. This highly reliable movement offers the flyback function, an essential feature for pilot's watches, allowing the chronograph to be reset and restarted with a single press. This choice of movement illustrates Breguet's desire to combine watchmaking tradition and modernity, while guaranteeing exemplary precision.

The package

This Breguet Type XX Transatlantic from the 2000s is in excellent condition. It has just come from the Breguet workshops for a full service. It will be delivered to you with its service case and its service document dated February 2025. This Type XX has been authenticated and checked by our watchmakers and as such benefits from our one-year Lepage Vintage warranty.