Grand Seiko Heritage 44GS "Kiri" mechanical purple dial steel bracelet 36.5 mm

A history of style

In 1967, Grand Seiko introduced the 44GS, a watch that would embody the design code known as the Grand Seiko style. This style consists of 9 distinct elements that govern the design of every detail of the watch, from the shape of the case to that of the 12 o'clock index to the flat surface of the dial. As Grand Seiko enthusiasts well know, the 44GS was designed to make watch design history. With its iconic case geometry, distortion-free finish and eye-catching dial, the 44GS was then - and remains to this day - exemplary of Grand Seiko's focused design language.

In 2013, Grand Seiko unveiled the modern interpretation of the 44GS style, adapting the founding 1967 model to contemporary sensibilities. Now, 55 years after its first appearance, the brand presents this SBGW99, a hand-wound model commemorating the 44GS design, in a reasonably sized case. All the elements of the Grand Seiko style are brought to the fore in this model, contributing to the "quality sparkle" that defines the brand. All case facets, hands and indexes are designed to reflect the slightest ray of light, creating infinite combinations of light and shadow that change with every movement. Zaratsu-polished and brushed surfaces complement each other perfectly. It's this crisp, clear and unique aesthetic that makes it possible to say, "This is a Grand Seiko."

Inspired by the “Kiri”: the elegance of the purple dial

With a diameter of 36.5 mm, a thickness of 11.6 mm and a length of 42.7 mm from one lug to the other, the case of the SBGW323 pays homage to the iconic 44GS of 1967. Retaining the elegant and compact proportions of the historic model, this new interpretation is distinguished by its ease of wear and timeless design.

Fans of the brand know that Grand Seiko often draws its inspiration from the cultural and natural wealth of Japan. For the SBGW323 reference, the artisans have chosen to pay homage to the kiri (Paulownia), the floral emblem of Iwate Prefecture. The purple color of the dial reflects the flowering of this plant in spring, creating a poetic link between Japanese tradition and precision watchmaking.

The sunburst pattern on the dial, inspired by the snowy peaks of Mount Iwate, is accentuated by the deep purple color, capturing the light in a unique way. This intricate pattern is reminiscent of the surface of Japanese folding fans (kamisen), whose angular structure creates a subtle play of light and shadow. The complexity of this pattern evokes the patience and mastery of Japanese artisans, who meticulously fold fans to achieve this striking effect.

This textured dial reacts beautifully to light, creating countless shades of purple depending on the angle from which it is viewed. The bezel, faceted hour markers and polished hands have also been reworked to harmonize with these compact dimensions, enhancing the elegance of this exceptional piece.

Protecting the dial, a box-shaped sapphire crystal brings a vintage touch, directly linked to the historic 1967 model. This design choice accentuates the depth and unique character of the Grand Seiko SBGW323, which combines heritage and modernity with Japanese elegance.

The Grand Seiko caliber 9S64

Behind its engraved caseback is the Manufacture calibre 9S64. This is one of the lion brand's rare hand-wound mechanical movements. Offering a comfortable power reserve of around three days (72 hours) when fully wound, it is designed to be stable and precise. As Grand Seiko's chronometric standards are stricter than those of the COSC, the movement has been set to 6 positions, guaranteeing a precision of -3 to +5 seconds per day, with a balance beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
The movement is hand-assembled by craftsmen at the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, close to Mount Iwate! Daily inspiration for the Manufacture's watchmakers...