Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 automatic 40 mm Full Set 1999

The story

If the Submariner popularized scuba diving, it could be said that the Sea-Dweller radicalized it. Whereas the former focused on water resistance sufficient for amateur divers, the latter was designed for professionals, capable of descending to extreme depths. The Sea-Dweller is the story of a watch that pushed back the boundaries of what was possible, responding to the challenges posed by abyssal exploration with a single mission: to survive it all!

Launched in the late 60s, the Sea-Dweller complemented rather than replaced Rolex's professional range. While the Submariner was already a high-performance tool for recreational diving, with water resistance to 200 meters, saturation diving professionals, like those on the SEALAB project, needed a watch capable of withstanding the specific constraints of this type of immersion. Submariners, though robust, were sometimes damaged during the decompression phase, with the crystal often expelled from the case.

The SEALAB project aimed to simulate extended stays underwater, well beyond the limits of recreational diving. Former astronaut Scott Carpenter spent 30 consecutive days underwater as part of this experiment. These extreme conditions highlighted the limits of the Submariner, particularly in terms of resistance to pressure variations.

Saturation diving requires the use of helium in the breathing gas mixture, and helium particles accumulate in the case of a diving watch during prolonged exposure. During decompression, the pressure inside the watch must be vented through the watch's weakest point, abruptly expelling the Plexiglas as the helium gas escapes.

Many prototype watches were built in an attempt to solve this problem, and they were often nicknamed “Sea-Dweller”, due to the several-day stays underwater. Eventually, a fairly simple and effective mechanism was developed in the form of a helium escape valve located on the side of the case. By letting the helium particles escape through a controlled mechanism, the problem of the Plexiglas exploding was solved. This was then improved in collaboration with the professionals at Comex (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises.

Thus began the Sea-Dweller line, in 1967.

Many evolutions

The very first mass-produced Sea-Dweller came out under the reference 1665 and then boasted a water resistance of 610 meters. It was nicknamed the Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD), in reference to the two red lines on its dial. Compared to the Submariner of the time, the DRSD was distinguished by its 40 mm steel case and the presence of its helium valve on the left-hand case middle. This watch featured a date display at three o'clock, a crucial piece of information for divers measuring their long stays underwater.

In 1977, reference 1665 evolved slightly, with the red lines now printed in white. It was nicknamed “Great White”, but no other changes were made.

In 1978, reference 16660 appeared, dubbed “Triple 6” by collectors. This modernized version was fitted with a sapphire crystal, making it water-resistant to 1220 meters! The watch also featured a new, more precise caliber with a quick date display. During its 11 years of existence, it has been adorned with numerous dials, with “matte” dials during its first phase, replaced by “glossy” dials.

Getting to know you

The next generation Sea-Dweller appeared in 1989 with the reference 16600 and was produced for 20 years, until 2009! At Lepage, this is one of our favorite references, as it straddles the line between vintage and modern models, taking elements from both generations to produce a fantastic “cocktail”. That's the advantage of Rolexes with 5-digit references!

The 16600 is the last Sea-Dweller to receive a 40 mm-diameter steel case with an aluminum bezel and offering water resistance to 1220 meters. Indeed, the next generation has tripled its water resistance to an impressive 3,990 meters...

While it retains vintage dimensions (46 mm long by 14.5 mm thick) almost similar to a Rolex Submariner 14060 from the same period, it wears perfectly on the wrist, without “overdoing it”, with a timeless look. With proportions much closer to the 70s than the 2000s, the model is nonetheless modern and very reliable! In fact, this model is powered by Rolex's caliber 3135, a movement still used by the brand and which remains at the cutting edge of technology. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and equipped with 31 jewels, this COSC-certified chronometer movement offers 48 hours of power reserve.

The use of this movement is the main difference with the previous generation of Sea-Dwellers, the “Triple 6”!

The model we offer in this 10h10 episode is a “Swiss Made” version, which indicates the use of SuperLuminova for the luminescent material. We love this model's glossy dial, circled hour-markers, incredible condition for a 25-year-old watch, and “armored” Oyster bracelet! A “neo-vintage” watch with modern features that's a pleasure to wear every day!

The package

This Sea-Dweller is in excellent condition and has just left our workshop for a water-resistance check and polishing. This 1999 watch will be delivered Full Set, with its case, calendar and 1999 warranty card. This reference 16600 has been authenticated and controlled by our Rolex watchmaker and as such benefits from our Lepage Vintage 1-year warranty. A free engraving (case back) is available on request.