Rolex Milgauss "Z-Blue" 116400GV automatic 40 mm Full Set 2017

The story

The story goes that it was in the heart of the laboratories at CERN, the world's leading nuclear research center, that the idea for the Milgauss was born. In the early 1950s, faced with extremely powerful magnetic fields, scientists needed a precise, reliable measuring instrument capable of withstanding these extreme conditions. Rolex responded by creating reference 6543 in 1956 (some sources say 1954), an anti-magnetic wristwatch protected by a soft iron cage, capable of withstanding up to 1,000 gauss. A technical feat that placed the brand at the forefront of watchmaking and science.

The Milgauss marked its era, but it was not alone in exploring the terrain of antimagnetism. Models such as the Polerouter, Ingenieur and Railmaster also saw the light of day during this period. Yet it was the Milgauss that became a legend, setting the benchmark for antimagnetic watches. Its iconic design and association with the prestigious Rolex brand contributed to its enduring success.

The first Milgauss, reference 6543, boasts a resolutely sporty look, inherited from its illustrious cousin, the Submariner. With its 38 mm steel case and directional bezel, it is both robust and functional. Equipped with a Calibre 1065 automatic movement modified to meet anti-magnetic requirements, it offers remarkable precision. Quickly replaced by reference 6541, the Milgauss saw its design evolve with the appearance of a lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand, an iconic detail that would become its signature. Produced in only a few hundred examples over a short period of time (4 years), these first Milgauss are today extremely rare collector's items.

Launched in 1960, Rolex presents the second generation Milgauss, with reference 1019, which marks an aesthetic turning point for the Milgauss. Farewell to the rotating bezel, “lightning” hand and textured dial, replaced by a more sober, classic design inspired by the Explorer. This stylistic evolution, while preserving the very essence of the Milgauss thanks to its anti-magnetic protection, ensures exceptional longevity. Indeed, reference 1019 remained in production for almost three decades, until 1988.

In 2007, 18 years after production of the reference 1019 ceased, Rolex decided to relaunch the Milgauss to celebrate its 50th anniversary. This new generation, reference 116400, revisits the aesthetic codes of its ancestors while adapting to the tastes of a more modern clientele. Three configurations are offered: black or silver dials with orange accents that add a touch of sportiness, and another “special” version, with a black dial and green sapphire crystal, nicknamed “GV”, marks a real aesthetic breakthrough. This bold choice, inspired by the success of the “Kermit”, testifies to Rolex's desire to push the boundaries of watch design.

In 2014, Rolex once again surprised enthusiasts by combining the Milgauss's iconic green sapphire crystal with an electric blue dial, dubbed “Z-Blue”. This bold combination creates a striking contrast and reinforces the watch's unique character. While Rolex decided to cease production of Milgauss models without a green crystal in 2016, the “Z-Blue” and “GV” versions with black dials will endure until 2023, reinforcing their status as collector's items.

The model

The model we present is the latest iteration of the Milgauss, with an aesthetic as unique as it is symbolic. It has all the charm of a 6-digit Rolex, with a 40 mm Oyster case water-resistant to 100 meters and a smooth uvula. Its distinctive case middle is carved from a solid block of 904L steel. Its fluted caseback is hermetically screwed and now offers increased resistance to magnetism of over 1,000 Gauss (although Rolex has never confirmed its exact resistance index) thanks to a new two-part shield construction.

This reference 116400GV is equipped with caliber 3131, which incorporates Rolex-patented components to guarantee the level of resistance to magnetic disturbances that gives it its name. The Milgauss escapement is equipped with a paramagnetic anchor wheel. The oscillator, the heart of the watch, features Rolex's patented blue Parachrom balance-spring made from an exclusive niobium-zirconium alloy. Perfectly insensitive to magnetic fields, this balance spring is highly stable in the face of temperature variations and remains up to ten times more accurate than a traditional balance spring in the event of shocks.

Finally, this watch is mounted on an Oyster bracelet with the central link polished. It is fitted with a Rolex-designed Oysterclasp folding clasp. This bracelet also features the Easylink quick extension link, an ingenious system patented by Rolex that makes it easy to adjust the length by around 5 mm for extra comfort in all circumstances.

The package and our review

This 2017 Milgauss will be delivered to you Full Set, with its case, manual and warranty. This 116400GV has also been authenticated, satin/polished and checked by our Rolex-approved watchmaker. A free engraving (case back) is available on request.

In our opinion, the Milgauss has always been a kind of laboratory for Rolex. Far from the brand's traditional codes, this model stood out for its bold aesthetic choices, such as its electric blue dial and green sapphire crystal. These experiments polarized enthusiasts, some seeing it as an excellent watch that combines the best of Rolex codes, while others saw it as a deviation from the brand's aesthetic canons.

This willingness to think outside the box made the Milgauss a popular piece with collectors looking for originality. Unfortunately, Rolex has decided to stop production in 2023, making the Milgauss an even more desirable watch. Its discontinuation marks the end of an era and confirms the Milgauss's status as a collector's item in its own right.