Breguet Classique 3320 yellow gold automatic 33 mm NOS 1992

The story

When brothers Jacques and Pierre Chaumet acquired the House of Breguet in 1970, they inherited a name steeped in history, but whose luster had faded over time. Aware of the untapped potential of this legendary brand, they embarked on an ambitious rebirth project. In order to guarantee impeccable quality and return to the standards of excellence for which Breguet is renowned, they took the strategic decision to close the French manufacture and transfer production to Switzerland, in the heart of the Vallée de Joux. This choice was not insignificant: for centuries, the Vallée de Joux has been the cradle of watchmaking, home to exceptional craftsmen and know-how handed down from generation to generation. By setting up shop in this privileged setting, the Chaumet brothers are asserting their determination to make Breguet an essential reference in high-end watchmaking.

To breathe new life into Breguet, the Chaumet brothers turned to a recognized talent: Daniel Roth. After proving himself at Audemars Piguet, where he was the first watchmaker not to hail from Le Brassus, Roth was invited to join the adventure. Aware of what was at stake, he agreed to put his expertise at Breguet's service, provided he could delve deeper into the brand's archives and master the ancestral techniques for which it is renowned.

In close collaboration, François Bodet, the brand's director, and Roth set about transposing Breguet's iconic aesthetic to the wristwatch format. The brand's distinctive features - guilloché dials, coin-like cases and Breguet hands - are systematically incorporated into the new models. They are also distinguished by the introduction of exceptional horological complications such as perpetual calendars and tourbillons, a clear nod to the heritage of Abraham-Louis Breguet, the pioneer of these mechanisms.

The 1980s marked a veritable renaissance for Breguet, not least thanks to the talent of Daniel Roth, whose creations redefined the brand's aesthetic codes. It is for this very reason that collectors refer to this series of ten or so references as “Renaissance”, and today they are considered exceptional pieces. Breguet was then sold to Invescorp in 1987, and then to the Swatch Group in 1999, but the brand has since, always been inspired by the foundations laid by Roth while bringing its own vision!

The model

Today we present an exceptional timepiece: the Breguet reference 3320BA. Introduced between the late 1980s and early 1990s, this watch is a true gem of classic watchmaking. Its timeless design, characterized by clean lines and meticulous finishing, makes it particularly sought-after by collectors. It resembles the “Empire” models, watches originally offered by special order, which were often considered unique pieces, testifying to the craftsmanship of the house.

According to our archives, this watch was acquired by our company in 1992. Its closed case back, cream dial and absence of a reference number are proof of this. The unique “Swiss” wording on the dial, in place of “Swiss Guilloché Main”, also confirms this dating.

Remarkably slender, this 33 mm-diameter watch in yellow gold features the aesthetic codes dear to Daniel Roth. The hand-guilloché dial, with its multiple finishes, is a veritable showcase for the blued Breguet hands. The coin-like case features delicate grooves and striations, while the crown is topped with a sapphire cabochon. Every detail, from the extra-flat case to the dial finishing, testifies to exceptional watchmaking expertise. Personally, we love its lugs welded to the case, and the whole is an invitation to contemplation.

This watch is powered by a Breguet caliber 549, derived from a Jaeger-LeCoultre 889 ébauche. This caliber, produced by Horloger des Horlogers, is an ultra-thin movement first introduced in 1983. It has been used by some of the world's leading Manufactures, including Vacheron Constantin, IWC and Audemars Piguet, which used it for certain versions of its Royal Oak. This movement is still used today by Jaeger-LeCoultre with its third version referenced 889/2! Proof of its legendary, ultra-reliable design!

Anecdote

The attribution of the creation of the reference 3320 watches to Daniel Roth during the Chaumet era is complex. Their design, notably the presence of a date and central seconds, has fueled debate, with some claiming that these choices would not correspond to the aesthetic usually favored by the master watchmaker.

If you're willing to investigate the heart of an Italian watchmaking forum, you'll unearth a valuable piece of information: the paternity of this watch. One collector had the privilege of putting the question directly to Daniel Roth. Thanks to his privileged relationship with the watchmaker, a collector named Claudio, who owns numerous “Roth” watches, was able to lift the veil on the origin of this watch. In an exchange of letters, the master watchmaker personally revealed that he had been inspired to miniaturize an old Breguet pocket watch into a wristwatch. It's worth the detour!

The package

You won't believe it, but this Breguet Classique has never been worn! In fact, it's a NOS “New Old Stock” model, which was rediscovered in one of our boutiques. After so many years in hiding, we offered it a full service at the Manufacture Breguet. Dressed in an elegant black alligator strap with PVD steel pin, this watch is delivered with its original bracelet and, an exceptional piece, a “Double B” gold folding clasp. The latter, a true rarity, is waiting to find the bespoke bracelet that will sublimate your wrist.

Finally, like all our watches featured on our 10h10 program, this Breguet has been inspected and authenticated by our watchmakers and as such benefits from our one-year Lepage 10h10 warranty.