Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser Titanium automatic titanium bracelet 39 mm

An ode to mechanics

The ProPilot collection must surely mean something to you. Indeed, in 2019 the Hölstein-based Manufacture marked a turning point in its collections with its Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, featuring an ultra-modern design and a high-performance caliber with up to 10 days of power reserve! This avant-garde aesthetic proposed a stylistic break with the vintage Big Crown and other Sixty-Five watches that dominate at Oris.

For 2022, Oris struck again with the follow-up to this collection, christened Propilot X. If you quickly recognize the signature of these watches, you'll again find the letter X, referring to a new caliber, this time the caliber 400. The rest is similar to what we found in 2019: an all-titanium grade 2 construction, but this time with new proportions. But this year, the brand innovates by presenting an all-new dial...

Inspired by aviation

The ProPilot X Calibre 400 is part of a long line of Oris aviator watches dating back to the early 1900s, but it's much more than that: it awakens in us the joys of mechanics. With its powerful, seductive lines, this Propilot is made entirely of titanium. This metal is robust, lightweight, corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic. The design features the signature Big Crown ProPilot elements. These include an oversized fluted crown and a bezel whose relief recalls the propellers of an aircraft jet engine. The same decoration can be seen on the back of the transparent screw-down caseback. However, it's much more modern, with a streamlined face and a tapered case that extends into an integrated bracelet that hugs the wrist. The watch is very well executed, with sandblasted and satin-brushed finishes. The proportions are ideal, with a diameter of 39 mm allowing it to sit perfectly on the wrist.

A unique dial!

The dial of the new ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser must be seen to be appreciated. Depending on the angle, it changes color, shifting from blue to green and violet, like the coloration of iridescent beetles.

This process is inspired by the principles of biomimicry, in particular the phenomenon known as optical interference. This means that red light waves are destroyed, while blue and green waves are reflected. It's hardly believable, but there's not a drop of color pigment in the dial of this watch.

This inventive treatment is a surface modification that divides light into its different components, creating a stunning rainbow effect that evolves depending on the angle of observation. Everything on the dial has been created using laser technology. For the logo, indexes, timer and dial text, the brand has also used another laser process that creates a three-dimensional effect, so that it looks as if these elements have been applied in a conventional style. Magnified, the result is spectacular. The laser technique used by Oris is a first in watchmaking. It was developed in partnership with a research laboratory affiliated to ETH Zürich and applied to a titanium dial. It's a fine example of "technological beauty" that uses cutting-edge technologies to create memorable watches.

Technical side

The Oris Calibre 400 presented in 2020 was designed to fit a wide range of models from the independent house. It was therefore logical to find this movement in this new ProPilot X range. Totally new and designed entirely by the Oris Manufacture, this automatic movement defines "the new standard of performance in watchmaking" according to the brand. Indeed, there are four important features to remember about this caliber:

• Thanks to the use of two barrels, this Calibre 400 can deliver up to 120 hours of power reserve.
• It offers a precision of up to -3/+5 seconds per day, exceeding the COSC requirement of -4 to +6 seconds per day.
• The Calibre features some thirty non-ferrous components, providing proven antimagnetism. These include a silicon escapement wheel and anchor.
• It comes with a ten-year warranty and only requires servicing every ten years.

Furthermore, this caliber is visible on the back through a sapphire crystal. Its finishes are sober and in keeping with the philosophy of the caliber and the brand. One can appreciate a uniform sandblasting that brings out the different parts of this Calibre 400, and one can also notice the head of the teddy bear, mascot of the house of Oris. The rubies for the eyes, the barrels for the ears and the openworked oscillating weight for the smile.

In brief

• A mixed watch with a sporty design
• An Oris 400 movement with exceptional performance
• A dial with innovative technology