Breguet Classique Complication Tourbillon 5317 platinium automatic 39 mm Full Set

The discovery

Today, we're off to discover the fascinating world of tourbillon art at Breguet! Since its foundation by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 18th century, Breguet has been synonymous with innovation, technical excellence and refined aesthetics. And among the brand's most iconic achievements is the tourbillon, a masterpiece of horological engineering that defies gravity and enhances watch precision.

The tourbillon is a revolutionary invention introduced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 to offset the negative effects of gravity on the precision of mechanical watches. At the time, pocket watches were often worn in vertical positions, which influenced the movement of the regulating organ and led to variations in measured time. The tourbillon was then designed to counter this problem by performing a complete rotation of the entire regulating organ, including escapement, balance wheel and balance spring, in a regular time interval.

The result is a horological marvel that seems to defy the laws of gravity. The tourbillon's regulating organ completes a full rotation usually within one minute, thus cancelling out variations due to the different positions in which the watch is worn. In other words, the tourbillon enhances precision by compensating for gravity-induced errors, making it one of the most coveted horological complications.

At Breguet, the art of the tourbillon is elevated to its highest level. The brand has developed unrivalled expertise in creating exceptional tourbillons, combining impeccable chronometric precision with elegant aesthetics. Breguet master watchmakers devote endless hours to the meticulous assembly and adjustment of each component, creating unique and sophisticated timepieces.

Reference 5317: the perfect Breguet DNA

Reference 5317, presented in 2005 at Baselword, could be considered a modern classic from Manufacture Breguet! Indeed, it features all the hallmarks that make a Breguet watch exceptional. This 5317PT/12/9V6 version features a 39 mm-diameter case in 950/1000 platinum, revealing a magnificent gold dial hand-guilloché with classic Clou de Paris decoration. The power-reserve indication sub-dial aligns in perfect symmetry with the tourbillon and benefits from a wave pattern guilloché, crafted in the purest tradition of Breguet watchmaking art.

The hours and minutes in the center are legible thanks to Breguet's famous eccentric, hollowed-out "apple" hands. These are flame-blued for an exceptional rendering. The seconds are driven by the tourbillon at 6 o'clock. For perfect symmetry, the power reserve (5 days) is at 12 o'clock. And as with all Breguet watches, the unique production number is strictly reserved for it. Dating back to the early years of the company, this tradition makes it possible to follow a Breguet throughout its existence, often even beyond the centuries.

The case, too, possesses the DNA of the Manufacture: welded attachments and cannelures, those fine grooves executed on the case middle and adorned with two superimposed fillets, are an integral part of the sober and refined decorative motifs of the "Breguet style".

An automatic caliber with tourbillon complication

Here's what really makes this watch stand out: its entirely hand-chased 587DR mechanical self-winding tourbillon movement. This caliber is revealed through the transparent case back and offers an exceptional finish.

On the dial side, we come face to face with a one-minute tourbillon, with its "mirror-polished" finish bridge. And on the movement side, we find sublime chasing, a finish reserved for Breguet's rarest timepieces! This ornamentation appears on the reverse side of the plate, as well as on the bridges and winding rotor.

This finish is the result of meticulous and demanding work by a chaser, who used various forms of chisels or burins, while observing the component through a microscope. Engraving motifs is, of course, limited only by the chiseller's imagination. However, unlike a painter who can cover up a detail and replace it with another, or alter the symbolic significance of his work, the chaser has no room for error. Each gesture is translated into an imprint in the metal that must be perfect from the outset, as the slightest clumsiness would result in the rejection of the piece in progress. So it's no exaggeration to say that Breguet's chasers are artists who deploy their talents on a precious metal support.

The package

Breguet offers us with this Classique "Grande Complication" a very successful modern interpretation of its flagship complication. In our opinion, this 5317 is one of the most seductive tourbillon models produced by the Manufacture. This reference boasts all the brand's iconic elements: a hand-guilloché gold dial with several motifs, a sublime tourbillon and an exceptional finish.

This 5317PT/12/9V6 is in excellent condition and delivered complete. It is dressed in a black leather strap with a platinum Breguet folding clasp. Like all the watches presented on 10h10, this Breguet has been tested and authenticated by our watchmakers. As such, it benefits from Lepage 10h10's one-year warranty.