Style Evolution 9
In 2020, Grand Seiko introduced a new design philosophy called Evolution 9 Style. While it preserves the fundamental principles of Grand Seiko style, the design philosophy that has guided Grand Seiko since 1967, but adapts them for the new generation by setting new standards in legibility, aesthetics and comfort, while taking its already impressive designs and technology to new levels. The refinement of the Evolution 9 series includes the deployment of new materials to achieve more sophisticated and comfortable watches.
A chronograph at the cutting edge of mechanical watchmaking
This SBGC249 has a case measuring 45.3mm in diameter and 15.8mm thick, which is made entirely from high-intensity titanium that is lighter and brighter than 316L steel. This is also the case for its three-mesh bracelet, offering an incredibly comfortable all-metal watch that leads its class in terms of comfort. As with all Grand Seiko watches, its case is highly finished, with a combination of Zaratsu polished surfaces to give a distortion-free appearance. In addition, the finish highlights the Evolution 9's distinct geometry, emphasising the lugs and bevelling along the crown guard and pushers. The pushers have been redesigned from previous Evolution 9 chronographs, and are now located closer to the case.
The dial colour is a Cosmo blue, inspired by the deep hues of a starry sky. This colour is versatile but also unique among sports watches, as it oscillates between black and deep blue in the most appealing way. There is the local time, a seconds counter, a 30-minute counter at two o'clock and a chronograph counter that totals up to 12 hours. In addition, it is possible to monitor the remaining power reserve, the date and a second time zone thanks to its GMT complication, or even a third time zone with the bidirectional sapphire bezel, a first for the Spring Drive GMT chronograph. This set of information makes the dial asymmetrical and dense, but at the same time uncluttered and very readable, due to a unique know-how in the production of sports watches for the Japanese group!
The Evolution 9 style hands and hour markers provide immediate contrast on the dial, and their size allows the time to be read immediately. Legibility is further enhanced by the extensive use of LumiBrite on the hands, markers and bezel. Note also the gold GMT hand, which adds a little bit of warmth to the dial. Of course, the watch is water resistant to 100 meters, has a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and a sapphire crystal on the case back allows you to see the movement inside. This SBGC249 is perfect to be an all-purpose everyday watch.
An ultra complex calibre
The watch is powered by the calibre 9R96, a Spring Drive chronograph movement with GMT function. This calibre is similar to the 9R86 but has been specially tuned to have a precision of ±0.5 seconds per day and a power reserve of 72 hours. It is most recognisable by its 18k gold medallion on the oscillating weight and is probably the most accurate mainspring driven chronograph in the world.
Indeed, this spring drive technology is a truly unique approach to watchmaking. The calibre uses a conventional mainspring to store energy and transmit it to a fully mechanical gear train. What is different is that instead of using a mechanical escapement to regulate the release of energy, the Spring-Drive mechanism uses an electromagnetic braking system regulated by an integrated circuit containing a quartz oscillator. As a result, the seconds hand moves in a smooth, silent gliding motion, like the true nature of time, and stops at the precise moment the push-button is pressed.
Like all good chronograph calibres, it has a column wheel to control the starting and stopping of the chronograph, ensuring precise and error-free control. A vertical clutch system has also been implemented to prevent the seconds hand from jerking when the chronograph pusher is engaged. A truly complex and integrated calibre, offering a wealth of complications in a single watch!
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