Tudor Black Bay 58 automatic watch black dial steel bracelet 39 mm

The Story

The highly acclaimed Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight reappears with an elegant rejuvenation. The Black Bay 58 model is named in reference to the year in which the first TUDOR diver's watch water-resistant to 200 meters, reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was introduced. This model, a true tribute to the aesthetics of the 50s, features a 39 mm case that recalls the proportions of the first Tudor diver's watches. Ideal for slim wrists and lovers of compact watches, it offers a perfect balance between timeless elegance and sporty design. This diver is also perfect for vintage enthusiasts!

While continuing in the tradition of the Black Bay models, the BB58 features a new color scheme that gives it a unique identity. The golden touches, often referred to by collectors as “Gilt”, recall the era when TUDOR diving watches were first developed. This hue is found on the hour markers, hands and minute track of the black steel bezel. The crown tube, now in satin-finish steel, blends perfectly with the watch's overall aesthetic, while marking a stylistic evolution within the Black Bay line. This detail is reminiscent of reference 7924, nicknamed “Big Crown” because of its large screw-down crown. Last but not least, the rose-shaped TUDOR logo is embossed on the crown.

The essence of Black Bay

Like the entire Black Bay line, the Fifty-Eight model features a dial inspired by those of TUDOR diver's watches produced in the 1950s. On this version, we recognize the DNA of the “Chapter Ring” dials, which feature a closed circle around the perimeter with demarcations for each minute/second.

The Black Bay 58 model also borrows TUDOR's characteristically angular hands, nicknamed “snowflake” in collectors' circles and appearing in the brand's catalog as early as 1969. The red triangle on its rotating bezel is also an identifying element of the first generation of TUDOR diver's watches, water-resistant to 200 meters.

A rivet bracelet

The bracelet of this Black Bay Fifty-Eight model is inspired by the folded rivet bracelets of TUDOR watches manufactured in the 50s and 60s. Their distinctive features were the visible rivet heads on the edge of the bracelet, and a “staircase leak”. These two aesthetic details are integrated into the bracelet of this model, which benefits from a modern construction with solid links.

Diversity

This Tudor Fifty-Eight model on a stainless steel bracelet (ref. M79030N-0001) is offered in a brown leather version. (réf. M79030N-0002), blue dial on blue “soft touch” bracelet (réf. M79030B-0003) and blue dial on steel (réf. M79030B-0001). The Swiss brand is also launching a brand-new version in 925 silver, (réf. M79010SG-0002) et (réf. M79010SG-0001).

The movement

This emblematic model features the Manufacture MT5402 caliber with COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification and bidirectional rotor system. This movement displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions in the center. In terms of decoration, it features the appearance and finishes typical of TUDOR Manufacture calibres. Its openworked rotor is entirely satin-brushed, while its bridges and plate feature alternating sandblasted surfaces and laser-cut decorations. Its construction is designed for sturdiness, longevity and reliability, as is the case with its variable-inertia balance maintained by a solid double-anchored through-bridge. Coupled with a non-magnetic silicon balance-spring, they enable Calibre MT5402 to be chronometer-certified by the COSC. Finally, its weekendproof power reserve is 70 hours, allowing the wearer to put the watch down on Friday evening and pick it up again on Monday morning without having to wind it.

In summary

This Black Bay Fifty-Eight model offers a perfect synthesis of tradition and modernity. It draws its inspiration from more than six decades of Tudor watchmaking history, while remaining anchored in the present without being a simple reissue. If the feel is neo-vintage, the manufacturing techniques, level of reliability, robustness, quality of finishes are in line with today's highest demands.